Stop the Pulling!

Of all the bad doggy behaviors out there, I think most owners will agree that pulling on the leash is one of the most annoying. That is why I want to do my part to help as many owners as I can to teach their dogs how to walk politely on the leash. It's really very easy in most cases to literally turn your dog's behavior around. Here are two simple methods I have used for my dogs during training, and for an ex boyfriend's unruly adolescent 8-month-old American Bulldog who pulled like a freight train.

The Tree Method
With this method, you literally stand your ground like a tree. While you are walking your dog, and he begins pulling, you stop walking and don't budge at all, no matter how much he's pulling to go forward. Eventually, since he's not getting anywhere, your dog should stop and look back at you to see what's up. The moment he looks back at you, praise and treat, and continue walking. If you repeat this exercise a few times, your dog will stop pulling and turn his attention to you progressively quicker. Begin rewarding him for not only looking at you, but for leaving some slack on the leash, and then for walking closer to you instead of way out in front.

The Turn-Around Method
If the above method doesn't work for you, there is this one, which involves just turning around and walking in the other direction. Just like in the above scenario, you will walk at a normal pace until your dog starts pulling, but this time, instead of stopping, you will simply turn straight around and walk in the other direction for several steps. If your dog rushes ahead and starts pulling again, you will turn and go in another direction without warning. Eventually, your dog figures out that if he wants to get somewhere and not get pulled in the other direction, he should be paying attention to where you are going. He will begin to look at you, and at this point, you will praise and treat, and continue walking.
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Both of these methods work so well, alone or in conjunction with one another, because your dog wants so badly to move forward during the walk and explore his surroundings. Many owners make the mistake of rewarding the pulling dog by giving him exactly what he wants - the act of moving forward. If we take that away and give it only when he is walking politely without pulling, then he will very quickly learn that when he walks politely, he gets to continue enjoying the walk.

As with all my other training methods, I only practice these on a regular flat buckle or martingale collar, especially since this training involves your dog's delicate neck. No choke collars!

All articles on this blog are written by Victoria Steen unless otherwise stated. They are NOT to be redistributed.

The Crate - A Positive How-To

Out of all the training tools you can provide for your dog, I believe the crate is one of the most important. The crate, if properly introduced, provides a safe haven for your dog, and prevention from accidents and getting into things during house training. Dogs are naturally denning animals, and most take to the crate in a matter of days with no problems. You should begin crate training as soon as you bring a new puppy home (provided that the pup is the proper age of 8-12 weeks).

Selecting a crate is very simple. Most crates have a size and weight limit on their tag at the store, which provides a guideline. A crate should be only large enough for the dog to stand up, turn around, and lie down in. If you have a puppy, you can buy adult-size crates that have dividers, so you can adjust your pup's space as he grows. There are two types of crates for training - an airline crate, which is the plastic, enclosed crate with the metal door, or a wire crate which is simply made of metal wire. Certain people and certain dogs tend to prefer one over the other.

Introducing your dog to the crate is an important step. You want your dog to associate the crate with positive things, so that he sees it as his den - his safe place. Set your crate up in a place in your house where you spend a lot of time, that way your dog still feels like he's part of the family/pack. Leave the door open for a period of time, get your dog's attention, and begin tossing treats inside (make sure they are extra tasty treats, like pieces of hot dog or chicken!). Usually, a dog will venture into the crate for the treats. If, after a while, he does not, you can try guiding him in gently by his collar, or putting him in, for short amounts of time with the door open. Continue with the treats.

Once your dog appears to be comfortable being in the crate with the door open, try closing it for a VERY short period of time (1-5 seconds). Praise and treat, and open the door back up before the dog has a chance to become uncomfortable and make noise. Slowly increase the time that the crate door is closed (5 seconds, 10 seconds, 20 seconds, 30 seconds, etc). This may take several sessions a day, over the course of a couple of days. The time taken usually depends on your individual dog.

When the dog has become comfortable with the crate door closed, you can begin feeding him and giving him special toys, such as food-stuffed Kongs, only in his crate. At night, you might put an old article of your clothing that smells like you in with him. During the day, you might play soothing music or leave the TV on for him while he is in the crate. All this helps to make the crate a positive place to be.

Remember:
NEVER use a crate as punishment. Your dog's crate is his safe place.
ALWAYS wait until your dog is quiet to let him out of the crate. This reinforces the calm behavior that you want.

If you are also using the crate in conjunction with potty training, please refer to my Potty Training Article.

All articles on this blog are written by Victoria Steen unless otherwise stated. They are NOT to be redistributed.

Emergency Homecooked Concoctions

Since my last blog, many things have changed in my life, one of which was the recent loss of my job. During this time, about a week ago, I ran completely out of dog food and had no money to get more. Luckily, I had several things in my kitchen that I was able to mix together into a concoction - my first ever attempt at home cooking for my pets. It was very successful, and got the OK from a few people I know, who also know their food stuff, so I figured I'd post it for my next emergency, and to help others out who might run out of kibble and need an emergency meal for their dogs.

1-2 cups rice (white or brown)
6 turkey necks
1 cup whole chicken hearts and gizzards
2-3 eggs
Fish or Canola oil
Vitamin E (If available)

Put rice in rice cooker, or boil on stove until done. Put turkey necks and whole chicken gizzards and hearts on a baking pan, and cook in the oven at 250-300. Check often. Remove gizzards and hearts when done and leave turkey necks to bake until cooked through. Chop gizzards and hearts into cubes, and strip meat off the turkey necks. Set aside the turkey bones. Grind up the eggs, shell and all, in a blender and cook in a pan until done. Break into little pieces. Add the turkey meat, organs, and eggs to the rice and put desired amount in food bowls. Add about 1/2 tablespoon of canola oil and some vitamin E to each food bowl, mix it up, and serve. Be sure to read the measurements on the vitamin E container before dosing.

If your dog carefully chews up any bones you give him, you may give him a turkey neck bone. However, if he gulps his food and any chew toys, throw away the turkey bones when you are done taking the meat off them.

This recipe was meant to feed both a 40 lb dog and a 27 lb dog for 2-3 days, so the amount of food it will make for your individual dog will vary, and you may need to cook more. It was eaten by both my dogs with great success, and no stomach upset, and is great for emergencies. Enjoy!

All articles on this blog are written by Victoria Steen unless otherwise stated. They are NOT to be redistributed.